08 December 2010:
Training has ended in a pretty unexpected way. We found out about a week in advance that swear in day was being moved back a day, to tomorrow (!!!!) and it will be in Spanish.
I don’t like to do a play by play of what has gone on, nor do I usually remember so much, but this last weekend of training happened to be pretty unusual, and I just can’t think of any better way to write about it.
Today is the official day commemorating the Virgin of Caacupe, the equivalent of the Guadalupe Virgin in Mexico. Many people pilgrimage to this small city to attend a massive mass and pray to the Barbie-look-a-like. Since swear in is but a day afterward, initial plans to walk the 10 hours from Typychaty to Caacupe in the middle of the night were thwarted. So while most had the first of many despedida parties in town, a fellow compatriot, his host family and I kind of took the pilgrimage. Well, we cheated in that we took a couple buses over 2 hours to get to a town called Ypacarai, so that we could walk just over three hours instead of ten.
I was expecting some kind of genuine religious and cultural experience, with people of all walks of life and ages making the long trek. The people walking were mostly teenagers and young adults, clearly in the best shape of their lives, without a family to have to tend to. We met up with the guys of this family I went with, sons about my age who walked the whole way. The basilica was closed, but there was a bar gate covering one of the huge doors so you couldn’t go in, but could view the virgin and pray to her from a distance. The family prayed for about 10 minutes, and I was in dire need to pee, so I left and looked for a place to relieve myself, while they prayed. It turned out that it was all the time they spent there, and didn’t wait for the church to open like I originally had thought. Afterward, we all, the host mother, her two sons, and random family friend guy, a young couple, and two of us volunteers went to a bar. While it rained, they all drank, and a few of us crashed out on the table. I was completely out, and just remember briefly waking up, observing that the one beer bottle at the end of the table multiplied to at least half a dozen, and completely crashed out again. At about 3 am we left, and the host mother went on a shopping spree to buy cheesy ceramic figures of dolls and a dog. We then waited for a bus to take us back. I also slept through the trip back, but did notice that the people we were with were obscenely rude and loud on the bus.
On Sunday, I returned at about 7am, slept all day through about 2pm. I noticed my family was unusually quiet and the home atmosphere made me feel restless. Shortly after I woke up, I left to watch a movie at a friend’s house, and took my time to hang out there. Now, my 90-year-old host father had a surgery a few weeks before, to implant some tube to his stomach as a way to feed him. He was bed-ridden afterward, lost more weight, and was slowly just battling more and more. I came back home after a few hours, to notice a few unusual details that amounted to a bad omen and I knew before I saw anyone.
The little store the family manages was closed, but the gate was open. When I left earlier, everything was closed and that was normal because it was Sunday siesta. As I approached the house, I noted the night nurse who’d visit almost nightly was walking out of the house, and this was just at dusk. Then I walked past the window of my host parents’ room, to hear my host mother sobbing. I knew my host father had shortly passed away. I had been told the day before that it seemed fluid was collecting in his pulmonary cavities, and he was just having the hardest time breathing. He had his last breath minutes before I arrived.
As soon as we exchanged hugs, and I tried to express my sympathy, we got to work cleaning out an adjacent room that nobody sleeps in but where everyone stores their clothes. The desk and a couple huge armoires were shoved into my room, and the empty room was scrubbed from ceiling to floor. I was amidst all this, confused but quietly helping, resisting the urge to ask what was going on. Within a couple hours, lots of people were showing up and a little altar kind of thing was set up in the room for the overnight vigil.
I was allowed to sleep, but because sleeping in a room adjacent to a vigil was something I wasn’t eager to include in my new experiences, I fled to a friend’s room where I comfortably slept on my Thermarest. We had to spend all day Monday in Asuncion for last minute logistics and issues in training, and I fortunately did not have to go home for lunch. The burial was that same day, which I’m not sure anymore if I’m relieved that I missed it or not, but I truly had no idea that it was shortly after the vigil. I did however, arrive for the last half of the last rosary of prayer thereafter, and soon everyone left.
Soon after, we had dinner, and I was trying to keep quiet though they talked a little about what they did and asked how my day was. My brother even cracked a couple of jokes over dinner, and we talked about how now host mom can be free to travel around the country and visit her kids, including myself. I didn’t know what to make of this, but I guess it’s just normal when you basically have been battling with the extremely poor health of a very old mad, and it all has come to an end.
Now that it’s a couple days since that’s happened, I can’t say that everything is nice and rosy colored at home, but the presence of my host sister, her family and brother who usually don’t visit this long is kind of uplifting everyone’s spirits, especially my host mother’s.

